Since its reopening under new ownership in January, the renovated Wes’ Rib House has been delighting barbecue lovers with fresh new recipes and familiar flavors alike. The Olneyville staple’s main draw is right in the name: the ribs at Wes’ are cooked up Carolina-style, which operating partner David Bertolini describes as a giant version of St. Louis ribs: “You can put two hands on it like corn on the cob.”
Wes’ Rib House has been a flagship for barbecue in Rhode Island since 1973, originally under the moniker of House of Bar-B-Q on Broad Street, but reestablished as Wes’ in 1983 in its current location. It was originally opened by Missouri native Wes Brewster who missed the southern comforts of his home state’s barbecue. Over the past 50 years the restaurant has grown and changed, most notably after a year-long closure when it underwent renovations via Crisp Restaurant Group, known for other popular restaurants like Providence’s Coal Fired Pizza and Barnaby’s Public House. The new operating partners – including Ed Restivo, Mike Santos, Aaron Jaehing, and Everett Abitbol – were no strangers to Wes’ Rib House of yore, and they wanted to preserve the history and “honkey tonk” feel of the old mill while also breathing fresh life into the space.
Patrons who were familiar with the former iteration will “see the light” the moment they enter the downstairs section of the restaurant, which was once dark and cavernous but now features wall-length windows that brighten the space. With exposed brick and wooden accents, along with more TVs for sports lovers, the renovations highlight the historical aspects of the building while thrusting it into the 21st century. The upstairs, however, remains true to its origin, and folks who love the old saloon bar will feel transported to an earlier time.
In order to revamp the menu, which Bertolini described as “very ‘90s” in that it featured a little bit of everything, they decided to focus solely on the barbecue crowd. With new recipes, a giant smoker, and a new pit, their offerings are more akin to what Wes Brewster would have seen growing up in Missouri. Family platters of pork ribs, brisket, pulled pork, chicken, and sides – from traditional collard greens and cornbread to Wes’ waffle fries – are great for feeding big crowds. By offering to-go catering and the option of renting the upstairs space for private events, there’s plenty of southern lovin’ to go around.
For those who aren’t familiar with barbecue lingo, the Missouri-style barbecue that Wes’ specializes in involves smoking the meat and then cooking it over wood. “There’s actually a fire in the kitchen, with logs of hickory,” Bertolini explains. “The ribs are amazing – they are our number-one seller. We’re going through 600 pounds of ribs per week.” The style of barbecue sauce remains the same, but with an updated recipe; in addition to the traditional Missouri sauce that’s sweet and tangy with a thicker molasses quality, they also offer vinegar and spicy sauces for some variety.
As Bertolini says, “This is a place for barbecue lovers, people who love playing with different sauces, and people who love ribs.”
38 Dike Street
421-9090
Comments
No comments on this item Please log in to comment by clicking here