With coffee blooming in Providence recently, it’s a wonder that it’s taken this long for Federal Hill to get in on the love. Opened in January, Vanuatu Coffee Roasters has set up on Atwell’s at the heart of the Hill, and are making it worth the wait. The back-story reads like a J Peterman catalog. James Lappin, software engineer by necessity world traveler by heart, was eclipse-chasing in the warm Southwestern Pacific breezes of Fiji. Intrigued by the volcanic Republic of Vanuatu, which had recently been featured on Survivor, he went on a whim. Searching for adventure, he instead found amazing coffee and, after negotiating with ten different chiefs, had a 30acre investment.
James began home-roasting the coffee and sending it to loved ones, like his sister, and co-owner Martha Soderland. She was so impressed by the taste that she encouraged him to return to Providence and start something up, and said she’d take a leave of absence from teaching to get it off the ground. James took a master-roasting course in Germany, and Martha began to search for a location. When the preexisting Nancy’s Fancies fell victim to the great cupcake cull of the 2010s, pics were sent, flights were booked and James and Martha snatched up the place.
Vanuatu Coffee Roasters is the only place in the US to get green beans from Tanna Island for roasting. However, while taste was persuasive for James and Martha, it was what they saw when they visited Vanuatu that really made the sale. The INIK cooperative of farmers functions to look after the needs of growers, with standards that well exceed fair trade standards. The coop has improved production, minimized waste and maximized profits for farmers, creating a boutique coffee industry without depending on foreign aid. Martha says the results can be seen on the ground, with many teenagers who were leaving the island for Australia now staying due to the economic opportunity, good for both business and their vibrant culture.
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