Experience: Estiatorio Fili Honors Greek Culture and Cuisine with Modern Twists

Traditional and modern small plates embrace “love of the stranger” on the East Side

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Estiatorio Fili quietly opened its doors last summer, initially with only the foot traffic of Wayland Square aware of its existence. “This is my first restaurant,” explains owner George Potsidis, an engineer by trade, “and I wanted to take things slowly.”

Fili, as it is casually called, is a nod to the Greek word “filoxenia,” which translates to “hospitality.” More literally, though, the word means “love of the stranger,” and it is this level of care that governs Estiatorio Fili. It’s clear that Potsidis is interested in recreating his heritage, which is evident in the use of recipes that originate from the matriarchs of his family, but you won’t find stereotypes at this restaurant. Fili’s design is minimalist and modern, and rather than landscapes of Santorini, there are black-and-white photos of Potsidis’ family and Greek icons on the wall. The space is intimate, holding about 40 customers total.

As soon as my husband and I walked in on a cold Friday evening, we were greeted warmly and our coats were taken. Our waiter, also named George, took us to our seat and explained that the menu is designed as a collection of small plates to be shared – a true mezethes experience.

The drink list is rich with the best Greek wines, from sparkling orange Paleokerisio to mineral-forward Assyrtiko, grown out of the volcanic soil of Santorini. They also offer creative mixed drinks, like the Athenian Old Fashioned, and spirit-free cocktails. We ordered the Cretan Breeze – caramelized pineapple, citrus, cinnamon, and basil – and Aphrodite’s Kiss, with pomegranate, citrus, ginger, and cucumber. I loved the smokey sweetness of the pineapple, and my husband said the latter was the kind of drink you’d want to sip next to a fire in winter.

One of my unspoken talents is ordering the perfect number of small plates, but even I had difficulty eliminating options – I wanted to try everything. We ultimately selected six: Horiatiki Salad, Tirokafteri, Saganaki, Keftedes, Patates Lemonates, and Psari.

I loved the Horiatiki “village” Salad: fresh ingredients topped with a block of feta and sprinkled generously with oregano. The vine-ripened tomatoes tasted like they had been pulled straight from the garden, and I was tempted to spoon up the remaining dressing and drink it straight. The Tirokafteri, a whipped feta dip, was a favorite – spicy enough to taste the fresno peppers, but not so spicy New Englanders should feel intimidated, and served with crispy pita from the oven. The Saganaki is a cheese dish named for the “little frying pan” in which it’s prepared. Contrary to expectations, it was not set on fire at our table to the shouts of “Opa!” but was classily baked over cherry tomatoes, onions, and herbs. It was delicious.

The Keftedes, or savory meatballs, transported my husband to his childhood – he said they tasted just like his mother made them. The Patates Lemonates were crispy potato wedges dusted with lemon zest. By the time the Psari – a branzino filet baked with lemon, olive oil, and garlic – arrived, we were facing our maximum capacity. We couldn’t even squeeze in baklava for dessert, despite George’s insistence that it’s the best he’s ever had.

In anticipation of a return visit, I’m already eyeing the poached Kalamari stuffed with cherry peppers and feta or the Gyro Piato featuring slow-roasted pork, and missing the feeling of being surrounded by a warm, Greek hug. No matter which dishes you choose, you are certain to experience a taste of Greece.

 

Estiatorio Fili

225 Waterman Street

401-642-8880 • EstiatorioFili.com

 

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