Review

On a Roll

It’s always burger time at Harry’s on the Hill

Posted

Even between mealtimes, Harry’s on the Hill is bustling. I guess when it comes to burgers, there’s never a wrong time.

Harry’s on the Hill is the second of Chow Fun Food Group’s four-restaurant chain, with other locations on the East Side, Lincoln, and Newport. The menu is simple: a few classic bar appetizers (wings, nachos, chili fries); a handful of non-burger sandwiches and hot dogs; and of course, plenty of burger options.

Harry’s burgers are slider-sized and come two to an order; those with big appetites have the option to add a third. Though the menu describes them as sliders, they still have some heft. As you bite into one, consider that the average burger has tripled in size since the ‘50s, so our sliders are a previous generation’s burgers.

The atmosphere is casual, but flashier and more fun than fast food. There’s a long bar, exposed brick, wood-covered walls, and large windows with a view of Atwells.

The burger has two best friends, fries and shakes, and of course both are available at Harry’s. We started with an order of Sloppy Harry Chili Fries. The chili was great – lean, spicy, and well-seasoned. Harry’s regular fries are slim but not small enough to be shoestring, crisp with a dusting of salt and finely ground pepper. We also had an order of the sweet potato fries. Usually I find sweet potato fries cloying, but these were some of the best I’ve ever had. They were just salty enough to offset the sweetness and had a good crust. They came with a bright green herbal “Kryptonite aïoli.”

We shared a selection of burgers: Crunch, Pastrami, Fungus Among Us, M.O.A.B. (Mother Of All Burgers), and a Double Wide. My Favorite was the M.O.A.B., a cheeseburger with hickory smoked bacon, portobello mushroom, and some crunchy fried onion strings. The patties, made from lean Hereford beef, were cooked fairly thoroughly. Though I prefer a medium-rare cook when I have a thicker burger, I liked that these were the type of classic burgers you could imagine eating at a drive-in.

There’s also a full bar and an extensive beer list. The menu has some fun cocktails. In the mood for something savory, I had the Bloody Murder from Hell, a spicy bloody mary. My husband had the Stone Idolatrous, an IPA with a nice balance of hops and tropical fruit notes. We also shared a couple of hard shakes – a S’mores, nicely presented with a scorched marshmallow skewer, and a Bourbon County Blizzard. Non-alcoholic shakes are also available in classic flavors.

The table’s favorite dessert was the Irish Car Bomb Brownie Bite, Guinness brownies with a chocolate Baileys whiskey sauce.

Harry’s is a fun and versatile addition to Atwells. During the day, it’s a family friendly place to grab an affordable meal, and after hours, it’s a natural complement to a night out on The Hill.

Harry’s on the Hill
1301 Atwells Avenue • 228-3336